Disc brake caliper lever bumps into caliper body

I think they ARE identical, in technical sight!

The calipers are built in mirror symmetry, there is a “left” and a “right” one.

I really cannot understand why that has effect to the function. :confused:

But there IS a difference.

Tried today two caliper pairs - only the rear caliper levers touched the caliper bodies. :question:

To the pads:
Assuming that the identification Hayes MX2/MX3 is correct - there should exist different types of pads : semi-metallic, sinter and kevlar.

http://torontocycles.com/Selling/Pads.html

I think it might be worth a try to test these types.
(And to figure out which type is originally used.)

OK =)


left to right:
strida original
clarks MX2 organic pad
EBC MX2/MX3/sole sintered pad
hayes sole original pad
(I don’t have any semi-metallic pads)

Strida pad looks like organic.

To the caliper - the problem with the rear caliper was/is that it is not centered - outer pad was almost worn out, but the inner pad still had much meat on it. Guess I will have to chop some metal from the frame to adjust it.

Many thanks,

Please be careful, wouldn’t it be better to change the pads?

You seem to be a “high-miler”, which I am definitely not, maybe the inner and outer pads should be changed against each other from time to time?

Please don’t go chopping some metal on the brakes because it’s in the way just to save like $10 of brake pads at most. Because that piece of metal is there to prevent the brake cable from flexing too much when you pull and release. With that piece of metal gone it will be bent at a greater angle every time you brake and eventually it will snap on you when you really need it!! :open_mouth:

every part on the strida was designed with a purpose I don’t think they went through 5 generations of changes to only keep that one part to make you buy new pads earlier.

This is a possible solution, but switching pads requires removing/installing caliper or the rear wheel, which is inconvenient.

Hmm. Possible. But why is it done so on the rear caliper only?

Not sure if it is still actual but making lever go further than it suppoed to WILL result in brake caliper failure. Inside a caliper there is a piston. Piston is made out of two cylinders, one is has a notch preventing it prom turning, other turns freely. Between cylinders there are 3 metal balls that gave grooves that they sit in.Grooves have dynamic depth. When lever is pulled the turning cylinder spins and balls are pushed out of deeper grooves and made to go up to less deeper part of a groove. That pushes the piston that pushes the prake pad. If cylinder is turned too much balls fall out of their groves and braking mechanism fails. To repair it you have to take caliper apart and lace balls back to their grooves.

Hi, I have problem brake disc touching the caliper brake. Refubrished Strida and chagned all washers and brake discs follows the official plan.

Hi,
pardon me, but that image is a little bit small and dark…

I guess you missed to install two washers;
between each one which is in direct contact with the caliper (that convex - concave connection)
and the frame lugs
there has to be another, flat washer.

Hint: At the original drawing / detail 240-04 you can see four times part nr. 7

  • even if just two pairs of the parts are identical!
    Sadly not good visible on that image below, please disregard the blue arrow:

Thank you very much for reminding - that is misleading issue nr. 3 at the manual!
:confused:

Impossible to verify at your image; it needs to be bigger, brighter and a little bit more to the right to see that.

Hi sorry I been so frustrated because forum don’t allow me login for last 3 days :slight_smile:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/185105605@N08

Can you look that?

I’m uploading YT Video is well…

Hi Damian,

welcome at Stridaforum :smiley:

Please pardon me for assigning your post to the wrong user first.

You were logged in the last time today at 10:28 and you were visible,
could you please try again?

Cheers,

Chris

Hi, Yeah everything is working currently… don’t know how long it will… had some Forbidden 404 errors and can’t contact with anybody from forum at private message.

Attaching video: https://youtu.be/DUShDcytcm0

Many thanks to Mark Salo who I spoke on Instagram - he helped me a lot! GOOD LAD!

Sorry if I messed up something in your forum :slight_smile:

Hi Damian, I hope this photo helps, on a front caliper the bolt and washer should fit like this. The thick washer with the curve in it matches the curve on the caliper, this helps align the caliper to the plane of the brake disk when tightened. The small silver washer fits under the bolt head.

Cheers, Bill

I don’t think that you are able to mess up the forum - and it’s not mine, all I have are a mod’s rights.

@Bill:
Obviously he has older bolts, these are domed at the underside - same as on the caliper.
In this special case, the washer has to be mounted between frame and the 2nd conical washer.

@Damian:
It seems you mounted the upper conical washer (below the bolt’s head) vice-versa.

I see that silver washer in my Strda Evo3 … that white Strida never had extra sasher… I will find any in my parts cupboard and check. :slight_smile:

The screw is not flat as on the pic made by Bill… I need check in old parts what I got maybe old screws where flat (they been replaced on new - screws and washers).

That’s what I meant above.

Would you mind to check if the login now works for you?

Login is working with no problems now… 3 days had fight with that…

Is bit irritating writing hello and yes all the time - but my browser remember the answers so is not too much problematic.

Hi, man from Strida Nederlands told me to do it like that.

I follows how is in my Strida Evo3

Front wheel is breake, black washer, silver washer, body, bolt.

Back wheel is breake, black washer, body, silver washer, bolt.

Front seems perfect, I’ve just bit scratching noise in back wheel.

Guys please confirm something - IS IT DEFINITELY PART 340-06 don’t need be fitted anymore? because I removed back wheel today and realized broken part 338 (it is metal tube with washer in the middle) Seem like is screwed too hard? OR is fault because no RING? Or because part 376 is an plastic washer? I;m sure before where metal once - man from shop in Nederlands said is plastic now.

Part 340-06 is required for the old plastic freewheels only.
Not necessary for the newer aluminium freewheels.

Typical issue; part 338 (magnet spacer) is broken very often but explicitly required for correct function of the magnet’s counterpart.
Together with three plastic washers (376) and one metal washer (469) will this system establish the tilt-function of the magnet’s counterpart.

Absolutely, also a typical issue - do not overtighten the wheel bolt 379!!!
I wrote an extra thread regarding this f… bolt - you can find it here
Tips from Mark.pdf torque warning!

No.

Again, there have to be three in sum, refer here for the correct parts sequence:

The three plastic washers and one metal are standard since ten years I can assure.

I’ve just 15Nm wench and is not clicking so I just done it carefully. I’ll have a ride and will do any corrections. :slight_smile: Thanks