The complete “operation” is very simple indeed and might be done in a few minutes (except the grinding). A complete rear wheel change (belt tension/kickstand length/brake caliper adjustment included) will take about 1 hour - if you’re used to.
Two different materials are pressed together strongly - not good.
In case of the bellevue (cup) springs the effect is a crackling noise, in the case saddle bolt and nut is the effect the seized thread.
The reason is the same: seizing, galling, binding, jamming - of different materials.
I just wanted to mention that I bought a new LT and to my surprise, after about a month ~75mi, I started getting the aweful creaking noise as well. Turning down the edge on the spring washer with a metal file and some sand paper (I did put some grease in there too) fixed the problem completely. Thank you!
You, sir, are a god. Thank you so much for the plenty of info not only on this thread but in countless others in the forum. You helped a lot a fellow Stridist in South America.
I have to protest here strongly, surely I’m not, but thank you very much for your compliment.
I’m really happy that you appreciate my poor efforts to supply a little help for Strida fans
Just after 125km got a similar noise problem when pedaling on Strida SX. Tightened crank bolts and added some grease under 363(367) part. Problem solved.
What if I use thread lock compound instead of grease? Will it hold?
I’m not sure, but I think that will not work, however you might try it.
The cup spring is under very high load while folding, I guess the locking compound will break loose.
Best experience so far was to use an anti seizing compound, anyway that does last for many hundreds of kilometres.
I did not remove sharp edges from the cup spring 367 first time the noise appeared. And it was back just after 120km. This time I decided to add extra steel washer under the spring cup and also replace part. 364. I think this should last much longer, but, I’m afraid, I’ll find out only next spring.
It is indeed what I advised, but now the spring preload is higher than initially, hopefully it is not too high to damage the spring A solution is to add a second washer 364.
I tightened bolt 373 just a little more than usual. After 2*13km today spring cup did not slide to the side, despite rather thick extra washer. Ideally I also had to use longer bolt because of extra washer and thicker 364 ‘improved’ washer.
This is a very weak spot in the Strida. I think at the factory they should do the same but make the axle a little longer to compensate for the extra washer. It will add 5c to production cost at most. People ask me about the bike but I cannot recommend it to ‘normal’ users because of the defect.
@Xentrax:
Excuse me, but one detail I don’t understand…
You mentioned bolt 340 - I guess that’s a mistake and you meant actually bolt 373?
I agree also that this is a massive construction failure.
Instead of elongating the axle it would be (for production) anyway cheaper just to add (partially replace) three washers and a longer bolt 373:
One big hardened washer below the cup spring (as you did).
One washer of equal thickness like the one mentioned above, the outer diameter has to be equal (or minimally less) to the diameter of the axle stump.
The third washer must be hardened too, it should be located between the bolt head and the washer mentioned at point 2 (as an improved replacement of washer 364).
Bolt 373 has to be longer for the thickness of washer point 2 (respectively for that of point 1).
Following the instructions here, I did steps 1, 2 and 3 and viola, the rides became silent again. Thanks. I noticed that when I fold and unfold, the cup spring 367 and the small washer 364 are rubbing at each other. Is that normal?
If I tighten it enough, does it mean I the creaking noise won’t come back for a longer time?
Yes the rubbing is normal: when you fold/unfold the bike, there is some angular movement of the down tube relatively to the seat tube which creates a compression of the cup spring. This compression movement will cause some rubbing of the cup spring contact surfaces with the 2 washers.
The creaking noise comes from the rubbing of the cup spring on soft and damaged metal surfaces. Assuming the new washers are hard enough, there should not be any creaking noise anymore. A higher tightening torque will not make the difference. If the noise appears again, replace the washers or put some grease between the cup spring and the washers.
Thanks very much for your insight. That clears it up. I also saw somebody putting another normal washer between the cup spring and the bottom tube, it is advisable?
many thanks for you feedback, glad that it worked!
And sorry for the late reply…
The mentioned rubbing is normal, let’s say it is part of the (for complete folding) required rear joint play sideways.
But it has to be said that it’s an unlucky choice to use a soft, low budget washer on this place (364).
I mean also that the additional washer below the cup spring - like on the 3 version Stridas - should be added.
There is still the question of the material kind and dimension…(more below).
The tightening of the 373 bolt should not effect the load of the spring!
(If it had effect would the bolt be loose.)
You should tighten this bolt correct to 18-20Nm.
It’s no tragedy not to have a torque driver,
more bad will be not to use thread locking compound
I mean the creaking will be back without another washer - sooner or later.
Later: The better the grease quality and the smoother the cup spring’s edge are.
In any case!
But following Bietrume’s advice regarding the spring’s characteristics it is not possible to add any common washer (too much spring pre-load).
Not mounted yet, but ready for first tests I’ve tried recently to solve the problem as follows:
Does anybody know a nice laser or waterjet cutter here in middle Europe?
Similar to http://www.bigbluesaw.com/
The height of the cup spring was reduced for 0,2 mm - to balance the sheet ring thickness - and the edge was carefully rounded.
(A small clamp tool for the cup springs, together with a turning lathe,
made the work process very fast and easy.
But of course can the edge also be rounded by hand.)
The weak 364 washer will be replaced with a stainless steel one, front and back of these below to the right.
Leftmost two original cup springs, in the middle two treated springs.
Zoomed for edge comparison:
If you want to try this method too, but you don’t have easy access to materials or tools
just pm me
Btw, did you already find your hook key?
The one which is shown in the tool guide (USAG 282) was bought in 2011 here for 13,20 €
(~ 18US$).
Maybe it’s costs are a bit higher today and the shipping might double (or even more) the price,
but perhaps is the offer still interesting for you…
Nice job. However, the thin bronze shim is not hard enough and might crack after some time. Hopefully, the rounded edge will delay this phenomenon.
You should also remove the grooves made by the cup spring in the aluminium lower tube, otherwise the shim will bend and crack when pressed in the grooves.
Next time, start from a stainless steel metal sheet.
Regarding the cutting of the shims, I am sure there are several laser cutting companies around Vienna: try this one or that one. Look also at companies doing metal etching (= photochemical machining), such as precisionmicro.de.
A solution is to add a second washer 364.
many thanks for you feedback, glad that it worked!
