I did search for adjustable hook wench and found some suitable ones in Amazon, but they are quite expensive, about US$80 inc shipping. I have not checked GUm yet partly because their operating hours is unfriendly (to me).
Actually my problem is that my LT’ BB is making creaking noise when I peddle hard. I read a little and it seems I need to remove the lock ring and remove the BB assembly, clean the inside, apply some lub and lock it back tight. My LT is only 2.5 month old.
Another update regarding extraordinary tools;
(Tools of/for freaks )
That’s a set of custom pulling devices for usual bearing extractor tools like the above mentioned, chiseled out of full aluminium rods (Ø 10 - 60 mm).
They’re intended to be used alternatively to a slide hammer for driving of the extractor tool.
(If anybody is unsure about a slide hammer’s function please google for “blind bearing puller” and “slide hammer” )
Via adapter rings they are matching exactly to Strida 18" hubs,
the black anodized set for rear hubs and the silver one for the front.
Axial ball bearings were used to reduce friction below the pulling nut.
The smaller, barbell shaped parts are pushing devices, these are intended to press the bearings back into their place.
Advantage: Due to the consistent area of support are damages of the hubs and bearings most likely impossible.
Disadvantage: The shown tool set will fit to 18" hubs only; for 16" hubs, bottom bracket and the bearings of the pivot pin would additional adapter rings be required. (And of course different pushing devices too.)
The initial reason to create these devices was - weird but true - the wish to anodize the hubs:
All Strida hubs were delivered with built-in bearings…
Usually, anodizing companies do not accept foreign material in their baths,
on the other hand would the acid bath treatments surely damage the bearings - so they must be taken out anyway.
And how does a (blind) bearing extractor work? some might ask…
Inside of the two “grab hook” halves of the bearing there is small cotter A, it’s connected to a bolt C.
Tensioned via the hex nut B will the two halves be forced apart and grab the inner bearing ring.
Second to last step will be the connecting of the extractor thread with the axle of the slide hammer (or pulling device) by using a long hex nut.
Finally can the bearing be hammered (or pulled) out…done!
I engage in the discourse of bearing pullers to ask you a question.
I am owner of a Strida 3 and lately the front wheel bearings (part no. 437 of the manual) make a bad noise like “click.” The bearing in question is placed on the lower part of the axle, in the middle of the drum brake.
Do you know and Could you tell me how to remove the bearing and which tool is necessary?
These tools grab the outer ring of the bearing and the pulling force is applied to the axle.
It might be possible that the brake pads must be removed before to reach the bearing.
Are you able to imagine the function?
Thanks for your answer.
Unfortunately I can’t remove the brake, as this is locked from the axle and nut useful to unscrew the axle is locked from the bearing.
I do not know why the bearing is pressed on the axle and not on the two sides of the wheel.
In fact, even the manual of Strida 3 shows a bearing spacer that does not seem to be present on my axle.
On the new version of the Strida the second front wheel bearing is not pressed on the axle? How do you remove both wheel bearings?
Hmm, I guess there’s rust between axle and inner bearing ring…
Maybe you could try some penetrating oil (you know MOS2 spray?).
And skipping of the distance tube 237 is definitely not reommended - perhaps your forerunner lost it.
100% not, all four bearings of both wheels are pressed into the hubs.
As stated above; I’ve got meanwhile ~ 10 original hubs and all of them were originally equipped with bearings.
Btw, for LT or 18 inch original wheel sets that does apply, too!
And just to mention it: The bearing spacers are naturally also included with each hub/wheel.
Exactly for that purpose was above tool kit created; to retract all bearings from (18 inch) hubs.
Black puller: rear hub, belt side bearing (right)
Black puller + black adapter ring : rear hub, magnet side bearing (left)
Silver puller: front hub, magnet side bearing (right)
Silver puller + silver adapter ring: front hub, disc side bearing (left).
Again just a guess, but I think this should not be like that on your Strida
Ooops…you will also be unable to remove the axle, because it’s nut is below the bearing -
and below the nut there’s the brake pad mount…
I’d try to apply first any rust treatment solution/thin oil for a few hours,
maybe there’s a chance to loosen the beasty bearing with an angle screw driver?
Also called offset screw driver, preferred a flat tip of good quality
I can’t find acceptable pics of the 3.0 brakes inside, but a simulation will do for explaining, I hope.
Situation will look similar to this
Perhaps you can get the bearing this way off the axle?
Would it be possible to place such a tool below the bearing on several positions?
With a bit luck can a flat tip srew driver be used as a lever.
Of course there is always the risk to damage something…
Thank you very much. You are very kind.
This week I will try to apply some rust treatment solution. After that I will try again to remove the bearing.
The strange thing is that when I remove both wheels (rear and front), one bearing (magnet side) remains on the wheel, the other remains stuck in the middle of the axle brake.
The wheels are plastic version and probably the bearing spacer is not present as it is replaced by a groove inside the plastic rim that allows the bearing to remain motionless and pressed on the wheel / hub.
Another test I’ve done is to remove the bearing (the one that stays on the wheel) and push it (by hands) on the axle. But it can not slide on the axle and stops shortly after.
It’s very strange.
I’m missing just one thing. Can you tell me what is the bearing spacer usefull for? It is fixed inside the hub? Or it is fixed on the axle and the wheel bearing pass through on it?
I also believe (as you said) that the bearings have to be stuck on the hub and not on the axle.
As a final test I will use a bearing external puller and hope it will work.
You’re welcome!
Thank you for detailed questions and interest in my 3.0 theories
Maybe we should start a new thread with your specific problem…and some pics?
Gladly l’ll try to; please let me first quote myself: Don’t even think of skipping this tube…
(from here: Rear wheel bearings for Strida?) and then start right from the beginning, referring to the parts drawing of the Strida 3 and the old part numbers.
Note: The small washer 376 (between magnet and bearing) does have a crucial function.
By creating a distance (= the washers thickness) it prevents the magnet of touching the outer bearing ring.
The outer diameter of this washer has to be equal or smaller than that of the inner bearing ring.
(The magnet must not get in touch with neither hub nor outer bearing ring or bearing cover.)
Note also: Once you tighten the wheel bolt 375 you’ll create a force in the bolt’s thread and another one in the opposite direction.
This force in turn will produce pressure to the washers 165 and 376, the magnet 236, again washer 376 and finally - directly to the inner ring of the first bearing!
And the travel of the pressure force should not be over at this point, usually it would be transferred along through the 237 (or 337 at the rear wheel) spacer and then the inner ring of the second bearing.
Finally you will find a special area of the axle, close to the hex nut.
This area is the counterpart for the second inner bearing ring, it’s diameter is smaller (or equal) than that of the inner bearing ring.
I really hope you can see the fine, round line between the axle stump and the nut, close to the hex shape and vice-versa the thread:
just a few tenth’s of a mm - that’s it!
Skipping the spacer would mean to create very high axial stress to the radial bearing - it would die very soon!
Not really fixed, usually it’s just more or less clamped between the two inner bearing rings.
Had also original wheels where it was slightly moving inside the hub.
No, inner diameter of spacer is slightly bigger than the axle d., spacer’s outer diameter similar to inner bearing ring.
To adjust belt tension at an EVO we’ll need a bigger sized hook key than for the previous 60 mm bottom brackets. For now, it seems that just Strida Canada is offering the correct hook key officially, it can be found here: Strida EVO 95 mm Hook Wrench
This key was equipped with a square hole which is intended for connecting to a torque wrench.
Please note that he recommended torque of 50-60 Nm (according to the KS3 manual) MUST NOT be equal to that which you have to adjust at your torque wrench!
That’s because the square hole is not located in the center of the key; due to the distance the torque must be corrected.
As soon we’ve figured out the exact distance we’ll edit the correct torque amount for this particular key.
I’m located in the Europe and to find some of the tools at an affordable prize wasn’t so easy. Especially the freewheel remover I found too expensive for what it actually is, a piece of cast metal. Prices ranged from €20 to €40, way more than I wanted to pay for such basic thing. Finally, I found a seller on eBay who sold it for GBP 4.99 + shipping from the UK. I received a freewheel remover from the Raleigh brand. And it did the job, the fit wasn’t that tight maybe as that of other brands and I had to give it the key a slight hit with a wooden hammer to get it to turn but overall it worked well.
Hi Chris.
As you know, I have been doing maintenance on bicycles as well as Strida recently, and I have been looking at my smart phone to check the work procedure. But when I do that, I have to wash my hands every time I get grease on my hands.
Do you have a favorite pair of gloves?
This may not be the right thread to ask that.
Hi yakitori,
I don’t really like to use gloves, usually I don’t wear them for bike work.
If protection is explicitly required, for example cut protection (wood carving) I use thick leather, or, another example - chemical protection, then it will be thin rubber gloves (usually black ).
But maybe you want to try a different approach; get yourself Nylon bags (used for freezing food) and put your phone into such a bag
Even the fingerprint recognition works (at least with my Xiaomi phone and a thick “zipper” freezing bag)
)
).