Just spotted that, though I’m in the UK, the rear brake is controlled by the right handle, and the front by the rleft - the opposite way around for bikes in the UK. Weird.
Gave me quite a shock as I’ve been careful to use the left handle first (thinking this was the rear brake), so that I wouldn’t go over the handlebars if stopping sharply.
I’m guessing that in Taiwan (and the Netherlands, presentably) it’s normal to have rear brake on right and front on left? I’m changing mine around to suit my hand memory ;}
Every bike I’ve ever had had the rear brake lever on the right handle (in Canada and in Germany). Is there some advantage to having the levers the other way round if you’re driving on the left-hand side of the road?
In left-hand traffic, the slowing down signal is given by the right arm of the rider when he/she is riding on the left-hand side of the road. While he/she is giving out the signal by his/her right arm, he/she has to use his/her left hand to control the rear brake of the bicycle, too. td.gov.hk/road_safety/cyclin … /index.htm
However, in the case of a motorcycle, the right hand brake lever operates the front brake wherever in countries with left-hand traffic or right-hand traffic.
It is because the throttle of a motorcycle is operated by the right handgrip so the clutch has to be operated by the left hand lever on a machine with manual transmission. However, scooters with CVT (Continuously Variable Transmission) in all countries also follow this way by using the right hand brake lever to operate the front brake and the left hand brake lever to operate the rear brake.
Well. I’ve just found that it’s not possible to change this on as Strida without also changing the cables for longer ones. I’ve just changed it around and now the cables cross over the handlebar clamp quite tightly so that I can’t now fold the handlebars down. Doh!
I’ll have to change it back for now, and maybe try to get longer cables another time. In the meantime I’m going to have to learn to override the cycling habits of a lifetime by braking with my right hand first. Should be interesting ;}
All Stridas selling by the local distributor here in Hong Kong follow the way of left-hand traffic by using the left hand levers to control the rear brakes and the right hand levers to control the front brakes.
I think it is relatively easy to reverse the mechanical disc brakes used on Strida. In the case of hydraulic disc brakes used on some mountain bikes, it is terrible to reverse the brakes.
Unfortunately, most of the high-priced imported bikes selling in local bike shops in Hong Kong follow the way of right-hand traffic but the low-priced bikes selling here follow the way of left-hand traffic. A lot of people here don’t know the true meaning of the difference and think it is a way to differentiate the grades of bicycles.
We are new owners of 2 (second hand) Strida’s.
One of the bikes has the left brake lever controlling the rear brake, but the other Strida has the right brake lever controlling the rear brake…!
Is it a simple change to move the rear brake cable over to the left lever?
Will I only have to remove the sleeves and then just re-feed them through the opposite hole by the handle bars, or will I need to buy longer sleeves, for them to be able to reach?
Any advice on how to pull them through the bends please?
Many thanks!
JP
Perhaps that is possible with a simple change.
I think that could be done by simply swapping the holes on either side of this photo where the cable runs through.
I’d say that is not so simple, you’d have to remove the plastic ball “pan” (parts 215-11 and 215-12) - BUT than can be a pita because the Philips screw (273) tends to seize with the claw nut (250).
I’ve never done that, but maybe it is feasible to exchange the sleeves (hoses) by pulling them a little bit back and then just “switch” the frame holes.
I’d try first to use the existing hoses.
Did you already take a closer look at the bent steering which you purchased recently?
There are two couplers supplied with the bent steering and I could send you a pair if needed.
This way, you could use the existing hoses and just add an additional, short piece of extra hose.
Btw, the elongation pieces of hose (also supplied with the bent steering) may not fit exactly - I recommend to adjust their length.
Use an overlength brake cable!
Here’s the method for replacing the whole sleeve:
Remove the old brake cable.
Push an overlength brake cable through the new hose.
Insert the brake cable (together with the new hose) into the old hose.
By pushing the new hose and pulling the cable you can replace the hoses at the same time, finally remove the overlength cable.
Thank you for those ideas.
We hope to be fitting the bent handle bars soon and will see if the short piece of extra hose (supplied with the bars) will keep it out of the way of the handle lock lever when we route the cable to the opposite brake lever… I’m guessing it won’t quite be long enough (hence your suggestion of an additional piece of hose) so I might pop to our local bike shop and get a longer extension outer hose made up by them…
If this doesn’t work then I may end up removing the entire existing outer hoses and replace them completely with a new longer brake sleeve (by using your 3.5m long cable solution) still to figure out how to change over the cable routing to the opposite hole, at the handle bar holes - so might use the string and vacuum cleaner method I saw here: https://youtu.be/wXk5Zz9DZbc?si=o3ew9ir3_MoXqGhX
Will let you know how it all goes…!
This pieces are mostly cut “somehow”, I can’t recommend to use these. I think it’s much better to adjust the length of these pieces matching to the existing situation.
The correct length depends on grip width and even on the angle of the brake levers - that’s different on every bike according to the users preference.
If the hoses are too short, one can’t pull the bars out of the clamp.
If too long, they cover the steering clamp lever - that is very inconvenient.
All you need to do that yourself (by cutting repeatedly pieces of under 1 cm length) is a good cable cutter.
Not recommended, reason above.
Therefore you must measure the required length exactly, it’s certainly easier to try.
I’d suggest to buy a cable cutter, 1 m cable hose and a few end caps.
With such cutters;
Not that it matters, but I think the cables in this tool image are images created by a generative AI.
(In other words, this is not an actual example of what happens when the cable is cut with this tool in this image)
Personally, I think it would be better to buy from a trusted tool manufacturer(Of course, I assume Chris has something like that).
I know it’s not something you use very often.
Thank you for your replies.
We have now changed over the brake levers so that both our Strida’s have left brake for rear calliper (as one bike was from Strida.hk and the other Strida,ch) .
We detached the brake inner cables and reversed them (so nipple was now at tyre end) and attached 10cm of heat shrink tubing to the ends now up by the brake levers at the handle bars. We then pulled the outer sheaths (only) back inside the frame whilst leaving the inner cables still coming out of the frame holes. One at a time, we then gently pulled the inner cable into the frame and then hooked the shrink tubing from the other side hole, (using some tweezers) and pushed the inner cable through the correct hole in the frame. Using the inner cable as an easy guide to then push the outer sleeves back through the correct holes in the handle bar stem.
Made this job nice and easy.
A week later we bought some bended handlebars from eBay for extra knee room (as I am 6’2” and my second son is 6’4”) and used the method blackstrida suggested, of using a 3m long brake inner cable to assist in pulling the new and longer cable sleeve, through the frame. His method made it super easy to run the cables without having to disconnect the frame at the ball socket area… thank you so much!
Orange mud guards and rear carrier (both from eBay) and some folding pedals and a new tyre and inner tube fitted, and we are almost there….
