Have you tried turning the freewheel (rear sprocket) so that the snubber bearing does not block it? There are gaps at regular intervals around the freewheel (the plastic one). Line up the snubber with one of these gaps.
I’ve got the alloy freewheel. It was on the bike when I bought it, so I assume it’s standard. Although; the exploding diagram in the manual shows the plastic one with gaps on the flange.
Tonight; I gave it a new shot after fwd-bwd had kindly pointed me to this thread [url]Strida 5 yearly service - #5 by luketoh] in the Tips and Techs section.
Still now luck
It feels like the freewheel and the wheel are welded to the bike… This weekend, I’ll put loads of CRC 5-56 on the thing, in hope that it looses.
… or am I missing a step? As I said, it feels like it’s welded. Can a really bad winter do that?
OK, I have the alloy freewheel too now (warranty replacement). And I actually have to completely remove the snubber bearing to be able to get the wheel clear!
If you have some spare cash buy each of your wheel set their own disk brake rotors and freewheel.
It will save you time changing a wheel set specially if you don’t have the freewheel remover tool.
This is what I did when I had bought a 2nd hand SX that I changed to 16" wheels. I still have the plastic freewheel of the 16" so I just bought extra disk brake rotors and screws.
So whenever I’d like to switch to 18" wheels there’s no need to remove the freewheel.
On the subject of removing the rear wheel, the snubber bearing has to come because somehow it secures the belt to the freewheel.
Thank you BSA!!!
I had problems with my rear-break… I was riding in the snow and the belt came off and got stuck between the speedwheel and the diskbreak this ended up damaging the rear break. Finally, I used a lever to make the disk straight again but I think I will have to replace it. I would not recommend you guys riding in the snow or steep hills.
Again thank you and have a good ride,
Il CIAVO