After three years of riding and folding daily to work my rear brake cable housing broke at the folding joint (cable was still good I can stop!) so I guess it was time for me to replace both cables with new housing (I found blue housing! sweet!). One thing you should order before hand is a new ball joint cup at the top of the triangle just in case, it’s a pretty inexpensive part luckily I have it cause I like keeping non standard spare parts on hand with weird bikes.
Reason was when I tried to remove the ball cup, it seems like the one screw holding it in was cross threaded from the manufacturer and it broke off the the plastic housing so I had to cut the bolt out! The bolt is a easy replacement at any hardware store with a 10-32 thread keep it short like 3/4 inch though. But getting the bolt out, I had to destroy the original ball cup to get it out. It is much easier to rethread the new housing and cables taking the bike apart than trying to push it through the bike one piece, you will have a very hard time getting it through the top joint because of the coiled spring protector. But after 3 years of riding before it broke I think it’s a worth while purchase for a new steering ball joint, regrease it with some synthetic grease around the ball and it should be good for many more years. The new cup felt tighter too and not as loose on the wear and tear. Now time to order another one for the future . I also have a belt and new plastic chainwheel handy just in case! Never had to use it though.
I don’t have a Strida yet but am already planning my mods.
Has anyone tried the lightweight iLink or Nokon aluminum cable housings?
The stock cable bend looks tight in this pic.
Would it be possible to cross the cables and have them enter the opposite side frame holes?
Or is there a specific reason the cables go into the closest frame holes?
Sure, it’s your decision which wheel you want to brake with which hand,
but why do you want to cross it?
The only plausible reason not to cross it is that the brake hoses might interfere with the handlebar locking lever.
I was thinking the ILink housing would need a bigger radius so crossing the housings would increase the radius.
Based on your photo with the Nokon, I guess it’s not an issue.
Caution, that’s not my account, that’s the one of Genuine_S !
I’ve tried neither Nokon nor the ILink, sorry…
Please note that Genuine_S used even custom made hubs (as far I know there are existing exactly two of these hubs - worlwide!) - with 16 instead of 18 spoke holes - for the H.E.D. Carbon rims (which are extremely rare, btw) - that’s another dimension of customizing, I mean
. I also have a belt and new plastic chainwheel handy just in case! Never had to use it though.
, as said, please take a closer look at Genuine_S…
