snubber adjustable on 5.2 LT?

Hi all,

I’ve had my new LT for just over a week now. There seems to be too much contact between the belt and the snubber bearing, but this does not seem to be adjustable on my 5.2. The bearing appears to just be fixed by a single bolt that is a tight fit with the inner diameter of the bearing. I’ve been told there should be a gap and there isn’t one.

Also my back wheel has already got a bit of a wobble on, you can feel this from the crank as well, I’ve not been baching up curbs or anything so I don’t undstand how I could of bent anything!?

Hello danny777,

welcome to Stridaforum.
I’m sorry you are having trouble.

Did you read about the snubbers above?

Are you able to provide some photos, please?
Wobbly rear wheel sounds strange, might it be possible that the rear wheel bolts are loose?

Hi, and thanks for your reply.
After looking at the thread you linked, it seems snubbers where once adjustable but not on the newer designs. I guess some one decided it was better to have the snubber in contact permantly and not make it user adjustable, or perhaps just to lower production cost.

As for the wheel, wobbly was probably not the best word for me to describe. If I turn the bike upside-down and crank it over, the wheel doesn’t run true, it is almost like bolt that holds the wheel on might be a little bent. It’s nothing major, just wondered if it was a known issue.

The wheel must run true, the bolts must be straight!

Did you buy the bike new or used?

Do you have the owner’s manual?
http://www.strida.com/en/download/?method=detail&sid=6

On page 13 is a exploded drawing of your Strida.
Above mentioned bolts are numbered part nr. 373 and 379.

As said, some pics might be helpful (maybe a link to a small video?).

Hi danny777,

Yes, the gap between the snubber and the belt cannot be adjusted anymore in the newer design.

About the rear wheel wobbling issue, it can be caused by:-

Since the snubber is not adjustable on 5.2, what should be done if it is in constant contact with the belt?

:wink:

Thank you. I’ll find a 0.25mm (as specified in tips from Mark) thick something and adjust it.

It would be better using a feeler gauge to adjust the gap between the belt and the snubber. :wink:
https://picasaweb.google.com/Human.Amp/StridaTech#

One could make such thing from a bunch of tin cans with a vernier caliper =)
Anyway, it did not help - it seems that there is not enough difference between bearing inner diameter and bolt outer diameter. I’ll measure them all and post here.

Agree, bearing has i. d. 8,0 mm, the bolt o. d. 7,85 mm (unthreaded shaft) :unamused:

For comparison:

bolt M 8 x 25 mm flat head , 15 mm threaded
head height ~ 4,3 mm
head o. d. ~ 13,8 mm
Allen key 5 mm

Bearing WC87008
o. d. 22 mm
i.d. 8 mm
height 10 mm

washer
o. d. 12 mm
i. d. 8,3 mm
thickness 1 mm

A simple modification, done by a turning lathe’s user (car/bike garage, mechanical workshop, turnery) should enable the desired function of the snubber bolt.

Reducing the shafts diameter to 7,4 mm would generate a gap of 0,6 mm instead of 0,15 mm.
(0,3 mm onward and 0,3 mm toward the belt :exclamation: )

Would that be sufficient :question:

@ Dear Amuropedia: Maybe you know, how many different snubber types there are on the market?
My guess is more than four?
Thanks!

I think Mr. knows the answer. :mrgreen: