I have been using a strida 5.0 for 3 years now. I was interested to upgrade the wheels, but i got the opportunity to trade it and the difference for a MAS. So right now i have a 2 speed 16" wheels Strida. I also have the opportunity to upgrade the MAS’s wheels to 18" for a small cost. Would it be beneficial? Is the speed increase noticeable, or as per Gear ratios information about different models of Strida we enter an area where the aerodynamics negate the benefit in increased gear inches?
Also another question about the MAS. I have a Rohloff, and i change its oil yearly, does the hub in the bottom bracket need a similar treatment? How do you maintain it?
The first part of your questions seems very complex, partially already discussed at the forum…
Please tell us more about your usual road/weather conditions…
What about your tool park, do you like to use your mechanical skills?
More easy might be the drive question:
The ATS speed drive is a license product of Mr. Schlumpf (I guess if you own a Rohloff you will know what’s a Schlumpf drive).
I think it will not be wrong to handle both drives the same way:
I believe the difference between Rohloff and Schlumpf (=ATS) drives, regarding oil change, can be explained:
Rohloff is using a completely sealed case, Schlumpf not (excessive use of MOS2-grease will result in discharge of the overfill).
Rohloff oil will be far more liquid than the Schlumpf grease (the grease can be “stored” between the teeth of the gears, even if the case is not fully sealed the grease will not spill).
Thank you Blackstridaaustria for the information about the Schlumpf hub gear.
Upon cleaning and setting the bike up (the MAS was a showroom bike, so it is not necessarily in mint condition), i noticed something that disturbs me. Where the bottom tube goes over the front steering tube (the place where the round adhesive patch is) there is a dent in the tube. It is under 1cm X 1 cm wide, and maybe 1 or 2 mm in depth. In the past, i have discarded and replaced another bike that i fell with (not a Strida), for a larger dent in the bottom tube. Is it the case to return the MAS or ask for a replacement tube (does that even exist?)? The bike is from an authorised dealer.
I ride in Bucharest, it is overall a flat city, with few inclines, but i am used to step down and push it it the hill is too steep. I travel between 10 and 15 km daily. There is not much wind here.
I will try to see if i can use the low gear and climb the otherwise unclimbable hills.
I have the tools (most if not all needed) to perform the swap the wheels, and i will probably perform it myself. I am unsure what is freewheel tool for strida, i have the standard cassette key.
regarding the frame damage I’m quite unsure…maybe you could upload some pics?
I know definitely that spare tubes do exist - a while ago they were available (in Russia) for a good price.
Sadly I don’t remember if these were painted or not.
What does your dealer mean about the frame damage?
I mean is indeed an advantage to use both wheel sizes on a Strida:
For good weather 18" and fast Kojak’s, 16" with broad tyres and profile for rainy days and muddy roads.
(Just use the forum search, try “Kojak”, “Schwalbe” or “Marathon” )
Btw, once you’re used to it will a complete wheel change need about one hour, readjusting of brake pads and belt tension included…
It should be mentioned that there are (maybe were) two types of 18" wheel sets on the market;
type A is (was) sold including brake discs and freewheel,
and type B will be delivered without above.
So, if you decide to order complete sets, you don’t need the freewheel tool (now).
Do you prefer the "incomplete"version?
Then you’ll need tool T of this post: Strida workshop tool guide
Please be careful where to buy these tools; the prices are strongly different!!
(Was seen for 12 and also for 55 Euros! )
This are 2 photos of the area. activsolutions.ro/strida/2.jpg . I wont remove the plastic protector, since i want to take it to the dealer monday, the 1-2mm depth is based on touch-feel. It feels like a lot of uncareful folding/folding took place, since the area is where the bottom tube goes over the front tube.
On further reading the forum, it seems if i upgrade to 18", i will have to use 18x1.35 max tires, while if i keep the 16" i can fit up to 16x2. So the ride on 18" will be faster, but harder. I am not sure i want that. If i underinflate the Kojak i presume it will fail horribly.
I could try chainreactioncycles.com/Mode … lID=104377 that would get me close to the size of the 18", with the same 8Bar if needed or lower.
I have a Brooks Colt (haven’t yet taken it off my MTB), similar in rails to B17, but also from the forum i found i can not use it on the strida. Apart from cutting the seat support, do you know of any other means to get a Colt on the bike? Or shall i go for the B67 and forget the Colt?
thank you for the pics.
Well, but should not uncareful folding also cause scratches in direction of the moving bottom tube - in riding direction?
Doesn’t it look more like signs of pressure force across the driving direction, applied at the folded bike?
If you lay the bike either on its left or right side - are there any (pressure) marks?
Did you try to look along the center axis of the tube(s) - are they bent?
May I suggest you show the frame to your dealer AND a second, independent and renowned bike mechanic?
You’re right, low pressure and Kojak does not match
…and, funny thing that you mention these tyres, some time ago I was searching for them without success MAXXIS Hookworm 16" x 1,95 (53 - 305) tyre request
but, last Thursday I’ve got a pair Hookworms from Chainreaction cycles
(Have to swap the wheel set first, both of our Stridas here are 18" wheeled at the moment.)
Did you notice the small modification which is required for wide tyres and proper magnet function?
Sorry, but I’ve never tried to fix a Brooks saddle on a Strida…or even had a Brooks in hands
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