I guess this is the correct subforum to post this picture.
I noticed that my rear wheel became out of true and started fixing by checking spoke tension - and noticed this.
The bike is rideable, but I think it is not safe in such condition. Hope this is covered by the warranty.
The only question that I have - why do they make those big holes in the flanges? - as if to weaken them =( No other purpose unless they were trying to save some weight.
OMG! 
For sure!
Me too, did you contact your dealer/Ming ?
We should ask Ming Cycles.
Holy Geez how in the world did you tear a hub apart?! Which model strida do you have? because my Strida 5.0 16 inch wheel hub has these funny elongated holes which two spokes go into each one but didn’t have extra holes between like that though. Never had a problem with them but then I moved onto the 18 inch wheels and the hub on those have no empty hole spacing all spoke holes only. It’s a solid piece of metal and after 4000km’s on them they’re still fine luckily 
. I did 2000km’s on the other one before i upgraded (2k a year of commuting). But yeah i’d contact ming about that to let them know about your model so they can offer replacements. You basically need a new hub and relacing a wheel isn’t the most fun if you don’t have the equipment.
If I stayed on my 16 inch rims I would have upgraded to those Strida LT mag wheels! no more spokes to break!
Yes. Fortunately, local strida dealer agreed to fix this under warranty.
This is a stock wheel of strida 5.2 (I bought it this summer). And I did not do anything special. Actually, I’ve noticed it accidentally 
Yeah, 18" wheels should be better. I was thinking of buliding them from the beginning. Now it’s time to set to work, I guess =)
Afaik, those wheel are even less durable (judjing by the maximum allowed tyre pressure). Plus they are not repairable (not more spokes to replace =)).
I think regular spoked wheels are ok if they are correctly built (tensioned, stress-releived, etc…) and free from factory defects (this is my case I guess).
You’re right, I’m sure.
Btw, did you check the spoke’s tensions at the front wheel?
Another broken spoke on back wheel
Once again, I’ve checked ten (10) original Strida wheels (three 18" wheelsets and two 16" wheelsets) -
ALL of them had (more or less) loose spokes…
Slutty built wheels over years?
If you mean original Strida wheels you’re right, but
It should be said officially that the most durable combination has to be that of a 16" rim, 36 spokes and an 18" hub.
(Optimal spoke pattern has to be discussed…)
A disadvantage of 18" wheels might also be the small amount of fitting tyres.
Got my bike back yesterday - fixed! They were really fast in repairing…
Yes. I was/am checking and tightening them from time to time. Don’t have a tension meter, so I was playing it by ear (by comparing with tension on my bike-mechanic-built mtb wheels).
I guess it is normal for average mass-production factory-built wheels.
Most durable - yes. But apart from durability I also want more speed =) - so I’m going to give 18" wheels a try.
Hmm… really? While looking for 16" foldable tyre, I’ve got quite the opposite impression. Maybe because I was looking for tyres with kevlar bead only…
With the 18 inch tires for the strida we have very little choices in order to fit the frame.
1)schwalbe kojaks 18x1.25
2)schwalbe marathon plus 18x1.35
3)strida innova tires 18x1.35
if you choose not to use fenders at all you can squeeze in the Marathons 18x1.5 but it will be extremely tight and might rub the frame.
For [size=150]18"[/size] wheels are just two (fitting) tyre sizes available:
18" x 1,25 (ETRTO 32 - 355) and 18" x 1,35 (ETRTO 35 - 355)
Thanks Edd, guess you’re right!
For [size=150]16"[/size] wheels should fit the sizes:
16" x 1,25 (ETRTO ?)
16" x 1,35 (ETRTO 35 - 305)
16" x 1,5 (ETRTO 40 - 305)
16" x 1,75 (ETRTO 47 - 305)
16" x 1,90 (ETRTO 47 - 305)
16" x 1,95 (ETRTO 53 - 305)
16" x 1,95 (ETRTO 54 - 305)
16" x 2,00 (ETRTO 50 - 305)
Tyre sizes above 16" x 1,5 will require modifications of the wheel (folding) magnet.
(Mudguard fit questionable…)
Beware, incomplete listing ! 
Replacement of broken spoke has revealed that those holes are needed for spoke insertion 
November last year I patched up my broken hub. I was able to drill a new hole in the flange next to the broken part. After 12 months and approximately 4000km it’s still holding 
Open the pic in a new window for a better overview.
Suffered the same fate. Broken rear hub because of over tension. The mechanic didn’t notice that part of the flange was already torn. I had to buy a fresh set of wheels. Fortunately, there’s a guy who needs the front wheel so we split the bill.
Now, the new wheel is untrue. It must be my weight (170 lbs) and poor road conditions.
I just hope Ming would come up with a better hub design or replace my broken hub.
Hi Chester, indeed verry sorry to read that…
But please, one thing for clarification:
You’re speaking of 16 inch wheels, correct?
Yes BSA the 16" wheels the hub with the holes in them.
Yes BSA the 16" wheels the hub with the holes in them. Ming should redesign the rear wheel to use 36 spokes instead.
